When someone talks about a Prince of Wales suit, they aren't referring to a particular cut or style. Instead, it's all about the fabric—that iconic, timeless pattern. The design, also known as Glen check, is a masterful arrangement of small and large checks that come together to create a look of sophisticated texture. It's a true cornerstone of classic gentlemen's tailoring, and its versatility is remarkable.
Key Takeaways
- It's All About the Pattern: The "Prince of Wales" name refers to the iconic Glen check fabric, not a specific suit cut or style.
- Royal Heritage: The pattern was popularised by King Edward VII when he was the Prince of Wales, elevating a Scottish estate tweed into a symbol of sartorial elegance.
- Supreme Versatility: This suit can be styled for formal business settings with a shirt and tie, or dressed down for smart-casual occasions with a turtleneck or by wearing the jacket and trousers as separates.
- Fabric is Key: The character of the suit changes with the material. Worsted wool is classic for business, flannel is ideal for winter, and linen blends are perfect for summer.
- Bespoke is Best: Commissioning a bespoke Prince of Wales suit allows for complete personalisation, from the fabric's overcheck colour to the lapel style, creating a garment that is uniquely yours.
An Introduction to This Timeless Suit
The Prince of Wales suit is a genuine wardrobe chameleon. It looks just as at home in a formal business meeting as it does at a stylish country wedding. Its enduring appeal comes from the pattern's unique gift for being both understated and visually engaging at the same time.
The design itself hails from 19th-century Scotland, but it was the trend-setting Edward VII, then the Prince of Wales, who popularised it and cemented its place in sartorial history.
Understanding what makes this suit so special is the first step to wearing it with real confidence. The structured, geometric nature of the pattern projects an air of authority and refinement, making it an excellent choice when you need to make an impression.
Versatility in Fabric and Occasion
The entire character of a Prince of Wales suit can shift based on the choice of cloth. Different materials make it perfect for various seasons and dress codes, which really highlights its incredible adaptability.
- Worsted Wool: This is the classic choice, especially for a business suit. It offers a crisp drape and is comfortable to wear year-round.
- Flannel: When the colder months arrive, a soft flannel version provides welcome warmth and creates a gentler, more relaxed silhouette.
- Linen Blends: For summer, a linen or linen-blend suit in a Glen check pattern is a breathable and exceptionally stylish option.
A purist would tell you that a true Prince of Wales check is technically a Glen check pattern that features a larger overcheck, often in a contrasting colour like blue or burgundy. These days, however, the terms are often used interchangeably to describe this family of distinguished patterns.
This adaptability means that whether you're aiming for boardroom gravitas, wedding guest elegance, or smart-casual flair, there is a Prince of Wales suit perfectly suited to the task. It's the kind of garment that rewards your investment with timeless style, year after year.
To give you a quick overview, here's a simple breakdown of what makes this suit a classic.
Prince of Wales Suit At a Glance
| Attribute | Description |
|---|---|
| Defining Feature | The iconic Glen check pattern, often with a contrasting overcheck. |
| Ideal For | Business meetings, weddings, smart-casual events, and formal occasions. |
| Key Fabrics | Worsted wool (year-round), flannel (winter), linen blends (summer). |
| Styling Note | Highly versatile; can be dressed up with a formal shirt and tie or down with a roll neck. |
| Overall Vibe | Sophisticated, authoritative, and timelessly stylish. |
Ultimately, the Prince of Wales suit is a testament to the power of a great pattern—one that has truly stood the test of time.
Tracing the Royal Roots of the Glen Check
Every iconic pattern has a story stitched into its threads, and the distinguished check that defines a Prince of Wales suit is woven deep into the fabric of British history. Its tale begins not in a grand palace, but in the rugged Scottish Highlands of the 19th century. The journey from a practical estate tweed to a worldwide symbol of elegance is a fascinating one.
Originally, it wasn't known as the Prince of Wales check at all. Its proper name was the Glenurquhart check—or Glen check for short—and it was first developed on the Seafield estate in the valley of Glen Urquhart. It was designed as a distinctive tweed for the estate's gamekeepers, a functional uniform to set them apart from keepers on other estates who wore their own clan tartans. It was a practical solution, born from necessity, not high fashion.
The Royal Endorsement
The pattern's fate changed forever thanks to a royal visit. King Edward VII, who at the time was the Prince of Wales, was a true arbiter of gentlemen’s fashion and a renowned style leader. While on a hunting trip to the Seafield estate, he came across the unique check and was immediately taken with its understated yet complex design.
He started commissioning suits in the Glen check for his own private wardrobe, and his influential endorsement catapulted the rustic pattern into the limelight. What was once a functional tweed for Scottish estate workers suddenly became a must-have for the aristocratic and fashion-forward elite. This royal seal of approval was the catalyst that completely transformed its identity.
While its royal fame came later, the pattern's formal recognition dates back to the early 19th century. The fabric design was officially registered with the Scottish Register on 1 January 1840—nearly 200 years ago—highlighting its deep historical roots long before it caught a prince's eye.
From Glen Check to a Global Icon
It was Edward VII’s fondness for the pattern that cemented its new name: the Prince of Wales check. His influence was so immense that the name stuck, forever linking the design with a sense of royal sophistication and sartorial confidence. The association gave the pattern an aspirational quality, securing its place in the menswear hall of fame. It's a connection we appreciate at Dandylion Style, especially having had our own experiences with royalty.
This legacy is as strong as ever today. Wearing a Prince of Wales suit is more than just a style choice; it’s a nod to a rich heritage that masterfully blends rustic utility with regal elegance. Understanding these origins is key to appreciating why this suit remains such a powerful statement in a gentleman's wardrobe—a true classic with an impeccable story.
Deconstructing the Iconic Pattern and Fabric
To really get your head around what makes a Prince of Wales suit special, you have to lean in and look at the cloth itself. The magic is all in the pattern. At its core, it’s a clever dance of woven checks that creates a real sense of depth and texture, feeling both timelessly traditional and surprisingly modern all at once. It's a masterclass in visual balance—intricate, but never fussy.
The classic Glen check structure is built from two key parts: a small, tightly woven houndstooth check, and a much larger, more open box-like check. These are set out in alternating blocks, creating a rhythm that pulls your eye in. The real genius is how these two different scales play off each other, producing a design that looks beautifully simple from across the room but shows its complexity when you get up close.
Understanding Pattern Variations
While the classic black-and-white version is an undisputed icon, many of the most interesting Prince of Wales suits today introduce a subtle but game-changing detail: the overcheck. This is simply a larger, single-coloured check that’s layered right over the top of the main pattern, adding a whole new dimension.
Think of an overcheck as a quiet accent that can shift the whole personality of the cloth. A fine blue line might lend it a crisp, business-like edge, while a deep burgundy or a forest green overcheck can give the suit a richer, more autumnal character.
These variations open up a world of personalisation. They offer a brilliant way to thread a bit of colour and modern flair into a pattern steeped in history, making the final suit entirely yours. A good tailor will guide you through the options, helping you land on a combination that nails your personal style and works for the occasions you have in mind.
The Critical Role of Fabric Choice
Beyond the pattern, the choice of fabric is what truly defines a Prince of Wales suit’s character, its drape, and whether it’s right for summer heat or a winter chill. The exact same check can feel like a completely different garment depending on the cloth it's woven from, making this one of the most important decisions in the bespoke journey.
Here are a few classic fabric options and how they transform the suit:
- Worsted Wool: This is the quintessential choice, the workhorse for a business or all-season suit. Its smooth finish and crisp handle keep the pattern sharp and defined, projecting an air of structure and professionalism.
- Flannel: Come the colder months, a Prince of Wales check cut from soft flannel is a different beast entirely. The fabric’s gentle, brushed surface—its nap—softens the pattern’s edges, creating a cosier, more relaxed feel that’s perfect for smart-casual tailoring.
- Linen and Linen Blends: When the sun finally makes an appearance, a linen blend lets you wear this iconic pattern in a light, breathable form. Linen’s natural texture adds a touch of laid-back elegance, making it an ideal candidate for warm-weather weddings or stylish daytime events.
Ultimately, the anatomy of a great Prince of Wales suit is a perfect marriage between its iconic pattern and the material it’s made from. Grasping this relationship is the secret to commissioning a suit that not only fits you like a glove but also perfectly suits your lifestyle.
How to Style Your Suit for Any Occasion
The true measure of a cornerstone piece like a Prince of Wales suit is just how far you can stretch it. This is your playbook for wearing it with confidence, showing how this one suit can anchor your wardrobe across different dress codes, from the buttoned-up formal to the effortlessly smart. The pattern makes a statement, but it's a quiet one, and that’s what gives it such immense versatility.
The secret is realising the suit itself is the main event. Your shirt, shoes, and accessories are the supporting cast, and their job is to either dial up the formality or gently dress it down. With a few smart choices, you can unlock its full potential.
Mastering Business and Formal Settings
In the office, a Prince of Wales suit in a classic charcoal or navy is a serious power move. It signals authority and a sharp eye for detail without ever shouting. The goal here is quiet confidence and refinement.
To nail this look, pair the suit with a crisp white or light blue poplin shirt. This creates a clean, sharp canvas that lets the check pattern do the talking. A solid-coloured tie in navy silk or a deep burgundy grenadine will ground the whole look, adding a touch of texture without clashing. Finish it all off with classic black or dark brown leather Oxfords for a professional, no-nonsense look.
For a slightly bolder formal statement, perhaps for a wedding, consider going for a three-piece. A contrasting waistcoat in a solid colour like dove grey or navy can elevate the entire outfit, adding a layer of depth and traditional elegance that’s spot-on for celebratory occasions.
Styling for Smart Casual and Weekend Wear
One of the suit's greatest strengths is its ability to be broken apart. Wearing the jacket and trousers as separates unlocks a world of smart-casual possibilities, stretching your investment that much further.
The jacket works beautifully on its own as a blazer. Try pairing it with:
- Solid dark navy or charcoal trousers for a timeless combination.
- Cream or stone-coloured chinos for a lighter, more relaxed feel in the warmer months.
- Even a pair of well-fitting dark denim jeans for a polished weekend outfit.
Likewise, the trousers are a fantastic piece in their own right. They can be anchored with a simple, fine-gauge merino wool jumper in black or navy. For an even more relaxed take, you can’t go wrong with a quality turtleneck sweater—a classic pairing that just oozes effortless style. You can find out more about getting this combination right in our guide to wearing a suit with a turtleneck.
The Economic and Cultural Weave
Beyond its good looks, the Prince of Wales check is a significant cultural and economic symbol here in the UK. The fabric, traditionally woven from wool, is a cornerstone of British textile heritage and manufacturing, particularly in Scotland and the north of England. When prominent figures wear a Prince of Wales suit, it casts a spotlight on this domestic industry. We saw this in 2023 when Princess Kate wore a check suit to events promoting British textiles, drawing attention to a sector that contributes an estimated £31 billion annually to the UK economy. You can read more about the impact of royal style choices on Good Housekeeping.
This enduring popularity ensures the pattern isn't just a fashion statement but a real contributor to Britain’s industrial story. It’s a classic design intertwined with both our cultural identity and economic health, making every suit a piece of living heritage.
The Art of a Bespoke Prince of Wales Suit
Sure, an off-the-peg Prince of Wales suit can look sharp. But commissioning a bespoke garment? That’s an entirely different league. It's less of a purchase and more of a collaborative art form between you and your tailor, a process that goes far beyond measurements to create a suit that’s a true extension of your physique and personality. This is the absolute pinnacle of gentlemen's tailoring.
The journey doesn't start with a tape measure, but with a conversation. In our first consultation, we'll talk about your lifestyle, where you plan to wear the suit, and the impression you want to make. This is also where we get hands-on with the cloth—perhaps a crisp worsted wool for the boardroom or a soft, inviting flannel for weekend elegance.
The Bespoke Process Unveiled
Unlike a made-to-measure suit, which simply adapts a pre-existing pattern, a bespoke suit begins with a completely blank canvas. Your tailor will take dozens of detailed measurements, which are then used to draft a unique paper pattern exclusively for you. This painstaking process ensures the final garment accounts for every nuance of your posture and build.
This one-of-a-kind pattern is then used to cut the cloth, which brings us to the first of several fittings.
- Basting Fitting: This is the skeleton stage, where the suit is loosely stitched together. It gives your tailor the first real look at how the garment hangs on your body, allowing them to assess the fundamental balance, drape, and proportions.
- Forward Fitting: Things get more detailed here. We refine the shape of the shoulders, sculpt the waist, and dial in the overall silhouette. This is where the suit really starts to take shape.
- Finish Fitting: By now, the suit is nearly complete. We make the final, minute tweaks to things like button placement and trouser length to ensure absolute perfection.
To truly grasp the artistry involved, you can explore our detailed overview of crafting your bespoke suit journey with Dandylion Style.
Personalisation Down to the Last Stitch
The real joy of bespoke, though, is in the details. Every single element is chosen by you, with the expert guidance of your tailor. It's at this stage that the suit transforms from a well-fitting garment into your own personal creation.
You’ll decide on the width of the lapels, the style of the pockets—perhaps slanted for a more dynamic, modern look or straight for classic formality. Even the button stance is up for discussion, as it can subtly alter the perception of your torso's length. The lining, the button materials… every last choice is yours, reflecting your personal taste.
The core difference is simple: a made-to-measure suit is adjusted to fit you, whereas a bespoke Prince of Wales suit is built from the ground up around you. This distinction is what creates an unparalleled sense of comfort and a flawless silhouette.
This infographic shows just how versatile a Prince of Wales suit can be when adapted for different settings.
As you can see, with simple changes to accessories and pairings, the suit seamlessly transitions from a professional office environment to celebratory weddings and relaxed casual outings. This entire process results in a garment that is not just made for you, but is a part of you.
Caring for Your Bespoke Garment
A beautifully tailored Prince of Wales suit is a serious investment in your personal style. Treat it right, and it will serve you faithfully for years to come. Proper care isn't complicated; it's just a set of simple habits that protect the cloth, preserve the shape, and ensure your suit always looks its absolute best. It all starts the moment you take the jacket off.
The single most crucial tool in your suit-care arsenal is the hanger. Always, always use a wide, shaped wooden hanger for your jacket. This gives the shoulders the support they need, preventing the garment from sagging and losing the structure your tailor worked so hard to build. A flimsy wire or plastic hanger will permanently damage the shoulder pads and warp the jacket's entire silhouette.
Daily and Weekly Maintenance
After you've worn your suit, let it breathe. Give it at least 24 hours hanging outside the wardrobe before putting it away. This allows any moisture to evaporate and helps the natural fibres—especially wool—to relax and shed minor wrinkles on their own. For any lingering creases, a gentle steaming is far kinder than direct ironing, which can easily scorch the fabric.
For deeper wrinkles or just to freshen up the garment, knowing a few tricks of the trade is key. Going beyond the basics and learning from professional suit pressing tips can dramatically extend the life and look of your bespoke piece. It helps you understand when a light touch is enough and when it's time to call in an expert.
Dry cleaning should be a rare event, reserved only for significant stains. The harsh chemicals strip natural oils from wool fibres over time, making them brittle and lifeless. Aim for no more than once or twice a year, max.
Long Term Storage and Care
When the seasons change, storing your Prince of Wales suit correctly is vital for protecting it. Before you pack it away, make sure the suit is clean and completely dry to ward off moths and mildew.
Follow these straightforward steps for safe seasonal storage:
- Use a Breathable Bag: Always store your suit in a fabric garment bag, never plastic. Plastic traps moisture, which is a recipe for mildew and can ruin the cloth.
- Choose a Cool, Dark Place: A wardrobe away from any direct sunlight is the perfect spot. Sunlight will cause the fabric's colour to fade over time.
- Consider Natural Moth Repellents: Cedar blocks or lavender sachets are brilliant for keeping pests at bay without leaving a chemical smell on your suit.
By adopting these simple practices, you'll keep your bespoke suit in impeccable condition. For more in-depth advice, feel free to explore our articles on achieving greater suit longevity.
About the Author
Igor is the founder and head tailor at Dandylion Style, a bespoke house where the timeless traditions of gentlemen's tailoring are cherished. With a craft deeply rooted in the spirit of Savile Row, Igor sees a suit as more than just clothing—it's an extension of a man's character and a quiet statement of confidence. His passion lies in the meticulous process of creating perfectly fitted garments that blend classic heritage with a modern sensibility. This fusion of expertise ensures every bespoke commission is a masterpiece. You can learn more about Igor and his approach to tailoring.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is a Prince of Wales Suit Appropriate for Business?
Absolutely. A Prince of Wales suit is a classic choice for the office that projects both confidence and a keen eye for detail. The key is subtlety. If you're in a more conservative corporate environment, stick with a pattern in a traditional charcoal grey or a deep navy to keep the overall look grounded and professional. Paired with a crisp white shirt and a solid tie, the look is sharp, sophisticated, and undeniably polished, allowing the intricate pattern to shine without being distracting.
Can I Wear This Suit to a Wedding?
A Prince of Wales suit is an excellent and stylish option for a wedding guest, offering personality while remaining entirely appropriate. For a daytime or summer wedding, a suit in a lighter grey or a subtle tan check, perhaps in a breathable linen blend, works beautifully. You can easily dial up the celebratory feel with a vibrant silk tie or a colourful pocket square. For a more formal evening wedding, a darker version of the pattern in charcoal or navy is ideal.
How Do I Wear the Jacket and Trousers Separately?
This is one of the greatest strengths of a Prince of Wales suit—its incredible versatility as separates. The jacket works brilliantly as a standalone blazer, pairing effortlessly with solid navy chinos, grey flannel trousers, or even dark, well-fitting jeans for a polished yet casual look. The trousers are a fantastic statement piece on their own, looking incredibly sharp with a fine-gauge knit sweater in a complementary colour or with a solid navy blazer for a classic, considered ensemble.
What Is the Difference Between Glen Check and Prince of Wales?
While often used interchangeably, there is a technical distinction. Glen check, or Glenurquhart check, is the base pattern of interwoven small and large checks. A true Prince of Wales check is technically a Glen check that features a larger overcheck, often in a contrasting colour like blue or red, layered on top. This subtle addition is the classic hallmark. In modern menswear, however, "Prince of Wales" has become the common name for the entire family of these distinguished patterns.
What Shoes Work Best with This Suit?
Your shoe choice depends on the occasion's formality and the suit's colour. For business or formal events, classic black or dark brown leather Oxfords are a perfect match for a grey or navy suit. For smart-casual settings, brown suede loafers pair wonderfully, especially with suits in more earthy tones. To make a modern statement, clean, minimalist leather trainers can work surprisingly well, dressing the suit down for a contemporary weekend look, provided the event is suitably relaxed.
Ready to commission your own timeless piece of tailoring? At Dandylion Style, Igor is ready to guide you through the bespoke process, from selecting the perfect cloth to the final fitting. Begin your journey and book a consultation today. Find out more at https://dandylionstyle.co.uk.