Most men are told an unstructured blazer is the relaxed option, the one you throw on when you want to look smart without trying too hard. That advice misses the point. Unstructured is not a mood, it's a construction choice, and in British tailoring that choice...
A shirt is nearly finished. The collar sits cleanly, the cuffs break correctly at the wrist, the cloth feels right in the hand, and the fit no longer needs debate. Then comes the last decision, which is often the most personal one. Do you leave it pristine, or add a...
A gentleman usually arrives at made to measure shirts for the same reason. He's tired of compromise. The collar is comfortable but the body blouses at the waist. The shoulders sit acceptably, yet the sleeves stop short once he bends his arm. Or the shirt looks...
You probably know the feeling already. A ready-made shirt looks acceptable on the hanger, then starts to argue with your body the moment you wear it. The collar bites when you sit, the sleeves shorten when you reach forward, or the chest fits while the waist balloons....
Most men start looking for a tweed jacket after a familiar disappointment. The ready-to-wear one fits in the shoulders but balloons at the waist. Another has a pleasing cloth but short sleeves. A third looks fine on the hanger and somehow ordinary once it's on....
