Crafting Your Bespoke Suit Journey

Embarking on the path to owning a bespoke suit is far more than a mere transaction; it is an immersive experience, steeped in centuries of tradition, demanding unparalleled precision, and culminating in the purest expression of your personal style. This journey, often perceived as the pinnacle of sartorial elegance, transforms the abstract into the tangible, creating a garment that is uniquely, unequivocally you. Whether your aspirations lead you to the hallowed grounds of Savile Row London or to the expert hands of other esteemed London tailors, the creation of a bespoke suit is a collaborative dialogue, a testament to craftsmanship tailored only for you. It’s about discovering a garment that not only fits your physique impeccably but also resonates deeply with your character, providing an unforgettable experience.

Understanding Bespoke Tailoring

What is a Bespoke Suit?

At its core, a bespoke suit is a garment crafted entirely from scratch, specifically to the precise measurements and individual preferences of the wearer. The very term “bespoke” originates from the Old English word “bespeak,” meaning “to speak for something,” or “to give order for it to be made”. This etymology beautifully encapsulates the essence of this craft: every aspect of the suit is literally “spoken for” by the client, making it a truly unique creation.

This stands in stark contrast to other tailoring solutions, such as made-to-measure and off-the-rack clothing. Off-the-rack suits are mass-produced in standardised sizes and finished conditions, designed to fit a generic body type, which often results in ill-fitting garments that fail to flatter an individual’s physique. These typically require significant alterations after purchase to achieve even a passable fit.

Made-to-measure suits, while offering a degree of personalisation, are built from pre-existing or adjusted block patterns. The process involves modifying a standard base pattern to fit a customer’s basic measurements, such as jacket and sleeve length or waist circumference. While some brands might adjust additional parameters, the underlying structure remains pre-established. This approach provides a semi-custom fit and a quicker turnaround, usually between four to eight weeks, often requiring a maximum of two fitting sessions, or possibly a third for minor tweaks. The fabric selection is also more limited, typically offering a few hundred choices from one or two mills. While made-to-measure suits are generally more budget-friendly, ranging from £700 to £2,500, they compromise on the depth of customisation and the unique fit of bespoke. Some made-to-measure garments might even have alterations added after the garment is made, rather than being accounted for during the making process, which can lead to disproportionate button or pocket placements.

A bespoke suit, however, guarantees a fit and style that is entirely unique to your physique and taste because it’s built from the ground up, with no standard or base pattern involved. This involves meticulously hand-cutting the fabric based on detailed, unique measurements – often more than 25 to 30 different points – which account for not just size, but also posture, shoulder slope, movement, and other subtle bodily nuances. The process is highly collaborative, with the client having full customisation over virtually every element, from the fabric selection, lapel style, and button options, to the personalised interior lining and stitching. This level of precision ensures the garment contours to the wearer’s body like a second skin, enhancing their natural shape and silhouette, and effectively addressing any concerns such as bulging shirts or specific body areas.

The time investment for a bespoke suit is considerably longer, often taking several weeks or even months, depending on the complexity and the tailor’s schedule. This extended period accommodates multiple fittings – typically three to five, including baste and forward fittings – which are crucial for assessing the drape, mobility, and aesthetic, and for making continuous adjustments until perfection is achieved. The making process itself is highly labour-intensive, often requiring between 40 to 80 hours of dedicated handwork for a two-piece suit. Matthew Gonzalez, a Savile Row cutter, notes that making costs are the largest expense per suit, reflecting the years of training (typically four to five years to become fully qualified) and the high skill level of the individual craftsmen involved. This craftsmanship also extends to the use of premium, often exclusive, materials, leading to a higher price tag, typically starting from $3,000 or £3,500. Ultimately, a bespoke suit is an investment in unparalleled quality, longevity, and a truly unique piece of wearable art.

The History of Bespoke Tailoring

The storied history of the bespoke suit is deeply intertwined with the evolution of menswear, tracing its roots back centuries and experiencing significant transformations that mirror societal shifts. Its origins can be found in northern countries, where fitted apparel was developed to protect nomadic peoples from the cold without impeding movement. In Europe, this fitted clothing was unisex until the early 14th century, when men began to wear doublets and pantaloons, the ancestors of tailored clothing. During the Renaissance, tailoring became a highly esteemed craft, allowing men to express elegance and poise.

A pivotal figure in the history of the suit is George Bryan “Beau” Brummell (1778-1840), often regarded as the first menswear influencer. In early 19th-century England, before Brummell, menswear was heavily influenced by the flamboyant styles of the French Court, featuring elaborate wigs, white hair powder, perfume, ornate silks, heavily embroidered fabrics like velvet, knee breeches, and stockings. Brummell, however, spearheaded a “Great Male Renunciation,” popularising a less ornamental, more refined style. He replaced the extravagant with understated elegance, championing natural unadorned hair, long trousers worn with boots, and coats with minimal ornamentation. His focus was on simple yet elegant garments that complemented and enhanced the masculine figure through exquisite tailoring, impeccable craftsmanship, and high-quality, non-gaudy materials. His standard daytime attire included a wool “Bath coating” blue coat, buff waistcoat, off-white linen shirt, white cravat, buckskin trousers, and dark riding boots. For evenings, he favoured a blue coat with a white or black waistcoat, black ankle-length trousers, and striped silk socks. Though his outfits did not always feature matching tops and bottoms, his muted colour schemes and streamlined silhouette laid the groundwork for the modern suit. Brummell’s influence extended to principles such as the timeless versatility of understated elegance, a limited range of appropriate colours, and emphasizing neckwear as the ornamental centre of an outfit, which continues with bow ties and neckties today. He also enshrined high-contrast black and white as the colours of evening formal wear. His meticulous approach, spending hours arranging his neckwear to appear nonchalant, was a precursor to what is now known as sprezzatura.

The Victorian era (1837-1901) saw the rise of the frock coat, a black, knee-length garment. Later, it evolved into the morning coat, a more formal daywear option, typically worn with contrasting trousers. The direct ancestor of the modern suit emerged in Scotland in the 1850s: the lounge suit. This was a casual outdoor garment made from heavier fabric, uniquely characterised by its matching jacket and trousers. By the early 20th century, the core shape of the suit was established, with subsequent decades seeing changes primarily in details like lapel width, jacket length, and buttoning points.

In the Edwardian era (early 1900s), suits were typically heavy and coarse due to lack of central heating and city pollution, resulting in dark city suits, while country suits featured more patterns and brown tones. The Roaring Twenties brought a shift from slim-fit to fuller cuts with wider shoulders and high-rise trousers, and a surge in vibrant colours, patterns, and accessorising. The 1930s became known as the “golden age of classic menswear,” defined by the “drape cut” with wide shoulders, pronounced waist suppression, and full, high-rise trousers, creating a masculine silhouette.

World War II led to rationing and minimalism in 1940s suits, favouring grey flannel, slim cuts, narrow lapels, and a decline in waistcoats. The 1950s saw a post-war rebellion with wider lapels and pleated trousers, and the emergence of styles like Ivy League and Mod suits, the latter being slim-fitting with narrow lapels and ties. The 1960s continued this slim aesthetic, incorporating new artificial fibres like nylon. The 1970s marked a low point, with tight, flashy suits, large lapels, and flare cuts, often made with predominantly synthetic materials.

The 1980s heralded the “power suit,” popularised by Giorgio Armani, featuring soft but broad shoulders, wider lapels, and pinstripes, reflecting a time of excess and capitalism. The 1990s saw a decline, with baggy, ill-proportioned suits. The early 2000s marked a return to the slim-fit, shorter jackets, and higher buttoning points, reacting to the excesses of previous decades.

Today, while society is less formal, there’s a strong resurgence in classic menswear, with individuals intentionally choosing to wear suits for their aesthetic appeal. The Internet has fostered global interest groups, increasing knowledge about suits and classic men’s style. The modern trend leans towards casual three-roll-two jackets with natural shoulders, slim silhouettes, and sometimes even soft, unstructured knit fabrics that feel more like a sweater. Despite challenges like the Covid-19 pandemic, which enforced casual wear, there’s a strong latent demand for luxury goods, and tailors like Kathryn Sargent and Simon Cundey observe a desire for people to dress up again, confident that the suit will return stronger than ever. The industry is also embracing the suit’s “green credentials,” as handmade suits made from natural materials are durable and locally produced.

From Thread to Cloak, All Bespoke

From British bespoke suits steeped in tradition to sleek two-piece designs by a skilled bespoke suit tailor, the perfect fit starts here. Whether it’s a bespoke 3 piece suit tailor crafting something truly distinguished, custom made business suits to elevate your workday, a relaxed weekend suit for effortless style, bespoke wedding suits for your most special moments, or a bespoke tuxedo for black-tie elegance — we’ll help you grow a wardrobe that’s unmistakably yours. Book your tailor consultation and experience what luxury bespoke tailoring feels like today.

Savile Row: The Heart of Bespoke Suits

Overview of Savile Row London

Nestled discreetly in Mayfair, central London, Savile Row London is globally renowned as the quintessential heart of English bespoke tailoring, often affectionately termed the “Golden Mile of Tailoring”. Its reputation as the number one destination for a hand-made suit anywhere in the world has been meticulously built over more than two centuries. The street is not merely a collection of shops; it’s a unique community home to more than a dozen bespoke tailoring businesses, employing over 100 working craftsmen who uphold an unequalled level of craftsmanship.

The Savile Row Bespoke Association (SRBA), founded in 2004, plays a crucial role in safeguarding and advancing the art of bespoke tailoring on Savile Row. The SRBA works diligently to protect its intellectual property, ensuring that the mark ‘Savile Row Bespoke’ is not devalued, and launched the ‘Savile Row Bespoke’ label in 2006 to formally denote genuine Savile Row bespoke garments. Their stringent quality criteria and manufacturing standards dictate that a bespoke business must be headquartered on or within 100 yards of Savile Row, and create all, and make the majority of, their bespoke garments on Savile Row and within the UK. Every bespoke garment must be made from an individually cut paper pattern by a Master Cutter trained to SRBA standards, supervised by a Master Cutter, and typically involves at least 50 hours of handwork for a two-piece suit. They also require members to employ at least one salaried apprentice cutter or tailor at any given time, ensuring the continuity of the craft.

The appeal of Savile Row extends globally, attracting clients from Europe, the United States, Asia, and beyond. It is considered a “bucket list” item for many, a testament to its enduring legacy and the unique experience it offers. Despite challenges faced in the past, such as the rise of mass-produced ready-to-wear in the early 1990s and a decline in tailors to 19 by 2006, the “New Bespoke Movement” has spurred a resurgence, with over 40 tailoring and clothing businesses now operating on and around Savile Row as of October 2014. This vibrant community, through its unwavering commitment to traditional values and continuous adaptation to client needs, ensures that Savile Row remains the international home of bespoke tailoring and a symbol of male elegance.

Notable Savile Row Tailors

Savile Row London is home to an illustrious roster of tailors, each contributing to the street’s unparalleled reputation for excellence.

Henry Poole & Co. holds a foundational place in Savile Row’s history, with its origins tracing back to James Poole in 1806. His son, Henry Poole, a “celebrity tailor” with a passion for equestrian and field sports, expanded the business and famously created a palatial showroom with an entrance onto Savile Row in 1846, thus establishing the street as the centre for gentlemen’s tailoring. Henry Poole’s firm has served nearly every European crowned head, including King Edward VII, and was the first Savile Row tailor to enter the Japanese market in 1964. Today, they offer over 6,000 fabrics, ranging from luxury worsted cashmere suitings to fine tweeds, ensuring that “no one else will be wearing anything exactly the same” as what they create for you. Their house style is distinctive, and they are committed to passing on their bespoke tailoring process to the next generation through an apprenticeship programme, preserving centuries of family secrets.

Huntsman Savile Row, established in 1849, prides itself on making the world’s finest handcrafted clothes. Their heritage as a “Gaiter and Breeches Maker” for the hunting and riding aristocracy laid the foundation for their unique house style. Huntsman’s iconic one-button silhouette, developed by legendary Head Cutter Colin Hammick, is one of the most complex styles to cut yet highly flattering, blending the elegance of a dinner jacket with the waisted silhouette of a hacking jacket. They invest approximately 80 hours of handwork into every tailored garment and require at least three fittings to ensure client satisfaction. Huntsman employs a large in-house cutting team and offers extensive bespoke services for men and women, including shooting wear and morning wear, complemented by made-to-measure shirts. Their “Weekend Cut” reimagines their signature style for casual comfort without compromising execution. Huntsman also maintains a global presence through its New York outpost and international trunk shows, bringing their luxury bespoke tailoring to clients worldwide. They were also a key military tailor during both World Wars.

Gieves & Hawkes, with a history spanning over 250 years, originated from two renowned military tailors: Gieves (founded 1785, British Royal Navy) and Hawkes (founded 1771, British Army). They famously dressed British royalty, including Queen Elizabeth II, King Charles III, and Princes William and Harry, and hold Royal Warrants dating back to George III in 1789. Gieves acquired Hawkes in 1974, solidifying their commitment to traditional bespoke tailoring at their flagship No.1 Savile Row address. While rooted in bespoke, Hawkes & Co were also pioneers, being the first tailors on Savile Row to introduce ready-to-wear in the 1920s. Today, they continue to house a full bespoke workshop, made-to-measure, and military departments, maintaining their high standards in quality, cut, and style.

Dege & Skinner, established in 1865 as ‘J. Dege’, is another distinguished bespoke tailoring house and bespoke shirt-maker located at Number 10 Savile Row. The company has a rich family history, with key figures like Jacob Dege, Arthur Dege, and Michael Skinner shaping its legacy. Dege & Skinner has a long tradition of creating ceremonial uniforms, having purchased Wilkinson & Son, ceremonial robe maker by appointment to HM Queen Victoria, in 1939. They dressed peers for Queen Elizabeth II’s Coronation in 1953 and made Prince Harry’s Blues & Royals frock coat for his wedding to Meghan Markle in 2018. In 2023, they made HRH Prince Louis’ uniform and Queen Camilla’s Page Boys’ military-inspired outfits for the Coronation of HM The King. William Skinner, the current Managing Director, was granted a Royal Warrant of Appointment to HM King Charles III in 2024 for officer’s uniforms. They were also the first and remain the only permanent bespoke shirt maker on The Row.

Edward Sexton (co-founder of Nutters of Savile Row in 1969) is celebrated for modernising traditional tailoring and treating bespoke suits as fashion pieces with a rebellious spirit. Sexton’s work, defined by exaggerated lapels, Oxford bag trousers, dynamic built-up shoulder pads, and long, flowing jackets, captured the new, rebellious energy of the late 1960s and defined the 1970s look. He dressed cultural icons like The Beatles, Mick Jagger, Elton John, Andy Warhol, and Harry Styles, and his work paved the way for a new generation of contemporary, fashion-forward tailors in the 90s, including Richard James and Oswald Boateng. Edward Sexton also offers an innovative “Offshore Bespoke” service that blends traditional techniques with modern manufacturing.

Kathryn Sargent is a trailblazer in the industry, becoming the first woman to earn the title of “Head Cutter” at Gieves & Hawkes in 2009, and later, the first woman to open her own tailoring house as a “Master Tailor” on Savile Row in 2012. Sargent’s approach blends traditional methods, honed during her 26 years of experience, with contemporary ideas, adapting styles for different cloths while ensuring longevity and craftsmanship. She actively promotes the Savile Row Bespoke Association’s training programmes and is involved with the Women in Tailoring network, advocating for future generations in the craft. Sargent has also expanded her reach by opening an atelier in Edinburgh, bringing Savile Row tailoring to Scottish clientele and catering to international clients travelling through Scotland. Her work is characterised by her love for creating unique pieces for individuals, embracing the variety of body shapes and personalities, rather than designing for an imaginary customer.

These tailors, and many others, collectively embody the legacy and future of bespoke tailoring on Savile Row, continually pushing boundaries while honouring traditions.

Style Beyond Measure, Tailored with Pleasure

Step into the world of luxury mens tailoring, where every detail is considered and every fit feels natural. From made to measure mens suits that reflect your individuality, to refined two-piece men’s made to measure suits and distinguished made to measure 3 piece suit tailoring — it all begins here. Whether you need a made to measure business suit for confidence at work, mtm mens casual dress suits for relaxed sophistication, custom made wedding suits for men to mark your special day, or made to measure tuxedo tailoring for black-tie events, we’ll help you grow a wardrobe that feels truly your own. Let’s get started.

The Bespoke Suit Process

The creation of a bespoke suit is a profound journey, a meticulous multi-step process that marries ancient craftsmanship with personalised attention. It is a testament to the belief that true luxury lies in individuality and perfection.

Initial Consultation

Your bespoke suit process begins not with a tape measure, but with an intimate and in-depth personal consultation. This is a crucial collaborative dialogue where you meet directly with your master tailor – or in the case of a smaller enterprise, the cutter who will draft your pattern. This initial conversation goes far beyond merely discussing your size; it’s an opportunity for the tailor to truly understand your vision, needs, and lifestyle.

The tailor will inquire about the specific occasion for which you’re dressing – whether it’s a sharp business suit, a stylish bespoke wedding suit, an elegant bespoke tuxedo, a relaxed weekend suit, or a custom made business suit for everyday wear. They’ll delve into your personal style preferences, asking about colours, weights, and whether you lean towards flamboyant or more understated aesthetics. Your functional considerations are also key: how often will you wear the suit? What climate will it be worn in? Are you hard on your clothes, or do you treat them with care?.

Beyond the verbal exchange, a skilled tailor employs what is known as “rock of eye” assessment. This is an instinct born of vast experience, where the tailor subtly assesses your physical quirks from the moment you walk in. They observe whether one shoulder is lower than the other, if your head is held forward, if you have a prominent seat or hollowed back, the stance of your feet, and even your mannerisms and movements. These “figuration notes” – such as “head forward, prominent seat, hollowed back, prominent calves” – are vital for creating a pattern that truly accommodates your unique body.

Following this detailed discussion, the tailor proceeds to the “art of measurement”. This is far more comprehensive than the basic measurements taken for ready-to-wear or even made-to-measure. A bespoke tailor will take upwards of 19 to over 30 precise measurements. These include not just standard figures like chest circumference, waist size, and sleeve length, but also intricate details such as shoulder angles, sleeve angles, the arch of your back, and the slope of your shoulder. Tools like a set square might be used to ensure the shoulder line is exactly right. This meticulous process ensures that the resulting garment will enhance your natural shape, provide comfort, and offer the flexibility you need for every occasion. The aim is to make good the less ideal parts of the body and “equal things up,” creating a flawless fit that feels like a second skin.

Fabric Selection

Choosing your luxury suit fabrics is an integral and exciting part of the bespoke suit process, setting the tone for the look, feel, and longevity of your garment. Bespoke tailors offer an extensive array of options, typically providing a choice of over 2,000 to even 6,000 fabrics from multiple prestigious mills, giving clients an almost infinite array of choices. This is often described as choosing from a “library” rather than a mere “selection”.

The selection process involves considering the fabric’s properties, appropriate seasonality, and the desired aesthetic. Tailoring fabrics are primarily woven wools, known as “suit weights” or “suitings,” distinguished from heavier “woolens” or “coat-weight wovens”. They must be fine enough for layering, sturdy to withstand wear, wrinkle-resistant to maintain a formal look, and supple to ensure comfort and fit.

Here’s an in-depth look at some of the most popular and luxurious options:

Wool: The undisputed cold-weather companion and a versatile choice for year-round wear. Wool is naturally durable, breathable, and remarkably wrinkle-resistant, making it a tailor’s dream material due to its forgiving nature and flexibility. Different wool qualities, from fine to coarse, are available. “Super” wools, ranging from 80s to 250s, indicate fineness in combed suitings, with higher numbers denoting lighter and more fluid fabrics. British mills, such as those in Huddersfield, Yorkshire, are renowned for producing luxury worsted cashmere suitings. For everyday wear, especially for those hard on their clothes, a heavier-weight, robust wool is often recommended for its longevity.
Cashmere: This exquisite fabric speaks the language of luxury and class. It is wonderfully warm, soft, and comfortable, making it a top choice for autumn and winter suits. A cashmere suit provides a comforting shield against the cold while looking impressively elegant. Pure cashmere and worsted cashmere suitings are among the most opulent choices.
Linen: A quintessential choice for warm-weather wear, especially in spring and summer. Linen is naturally breathable and doesn’t cling to the skin, allowing for ample ventilation. While it tends to wrinkle easily, this characteristic lends an air of relaxed sophistication, perfect for business casual wear. Linen blends can offer elegance without excessive formality.
Cotton: A versatile classic, cotton is a natural fibre known for its breathability, making it a staple for summer attire as it helps maintain a comfortable body temperature by allowing perspiration to evaporate. Various weights of cotton are available, enabling the creation of sharp silhouettes while ensuring comfort. Cotton blends are often chosen for a more casual look.
Silk Blends: These are classics for sophisticated, dressy tailoring, adding a subtle sheen and elegance, especially ideal for eveningwear. Silk is lightweight yet strong, and its thermoregulatory properties make it comfortable in various seasons.
Mohair: A luxurious fibre, often mentioned alongside wool and cashmere, known for its sheen and crisp hand, making it a choice for sharp, resilient garments.
Tweed: With origins in Scotland dating back to the 14th century, tweed is a rugged, durable, and stain-resistant wool fabric, known for its heat-regulating and rain-resistant qualities. Adopted by the gentry in the 19th century and popularised by Gabrielle Chanel in the 1950s, it’s used for classic suits, jackets, coats, and is ideal for country wear. Variants include Donegal and Cheviot.
Flannel: Originating in Wales in the 17th century, flannel is a soft, insulating, milled, and brushed fabric, often wool, used for pants, jackets, and women’s suits. It’s known for being fluffy and insulating but can be prone to pilling.
Barathea: Known in French as “Grain de Poudre,” this combed suiting has a dry, dense, and springy feel with a grainy texture. Its light-absorbing structure gives depth to its colour, particularly black, making it perfect for tuxedos and tails where it provides an appreciable contrast with satiny trims.
Serge: A supple twill fabric with a distinctive 45° diagonal pattern, widely used in tailoring for suits, jackets, and pants.
Gabardine: Patented by Thomas Burberry in 1888, this twill fabric is renowned for its rain-resistant, soft, breathable, and comfortable qualities, often used for trench coats and suits.
Whipcord or Cavalry Twill: Originally for military uniforms, this twill fabric has a distinct, steep diagonal pattern and is highly durable and abrasion-resistant, suitable for jackets, pants, and coats.
Tricotine: Despite its knit-like name, this is a woven twill fabric with a steep double diagonal, known for being soft, light, clean, dry, and abrasion-resistant, used for suits, jackets, and pants.
Wool Crepe: Traditionally associated with mourning attire due to its matte look and crinkled texture, it offers excellent drapability and natural stretch, making it suitable for women’s suits and draped garments.

Beyond the main fabric, the selection of linings and interlinings is also crucial. The trimmer in a tailoring house ensures the correct combination of internal components like canvas, wadding, melton, silesia, banroll, linings, buttons, and threads. The type and thickness of these materials, particularly the shoulder pad, are specified by the cutter to achieve the desired silhouette, whether a soft or a strong, square shoulder. Counterintuitively, a jacket with less lining can be more expensive to make because it requires additional finishing techniques to ensure seams don’t fray and look aesthetically pleasing. This meticulous attention to all fabric elements, both external and internal, ensures the bespoke suit not only looks superb but also functions perfectly and lasts for decades.

Tailoring Techniques

The artistry of bespoke tailoring is truly revealed in the intricate techniques employed by master craftsmen, transforming raw fabric into a garment that fits like no other. This section delves into the unique processes that distinguish a bespoke suit.

The journey begins with Pattern Drafting. Unlike made-to-measure which relies on existing block patterns, a bespoke tailor creates a unique paper pattern entirely from scratch for each individual client. This bespoke pattern, a hand-cut blueprint based on the numerous detailed measurements and “figuration notes” taken during the initial consultation, is specifically designed for your body. Richard Anderson, a Savile Row legend, describes these patterns as “pieces of art in themselves,” carefully archiving them for years and decades, continuously adding to or subtracting from them as a loyal customer’s needs evolve. This tradition of pattern drafting is largely based on oral tradition, passed down through generations of cutters, with each generation making their own subtle adjustments.

Once the pattern is perfected, the next stage is Hand Cutting and Sewing, known in tailoring parlance as “striking” the cloth. This is an incredibly skilled and delicate task, where the paper pattern is meticulously recreated on the actual fabric. Mistakes at this stage are not only costly but cause significant delays. The cutter must account for various “inlays” – extra cloth intentionally left in the garment to allow for future adjustments, enabling the suit to be “taken out” or “let in” as the wearer’s body changes over time. Furthermore, precise fabric matching is crucial, especially for patterned materials like checks or stripes, ensuring they line up seamlessly across the garment. Key parts of the garment, such as lapels, buttonholes, and linings, are meticulously hand-stitched, employing techniques refined over decades, contributing significantly to the garment’s superior quality and durability.

A defining feature of bespoke tailoring is the suit canvas construction. Unlike cheaper fused suits (where interlinings are glued to the fabric, often leading to bubbling over time) or even half-canvas suits, a true bespoke suit features full-canvas construction. This involves layers of horsehair canvas, wadding, and other materials being hand-stitched between the outer fabric and the lining. This allows the fabric to drape naturally over the body, adapting to the wearer’s shape and movements, and improving with age. It provides the garment with its shape, structure, and a supple, flexible feel, making it paramount for the optimal drape, longevity, and comfort of a bespoke suit. As Matthew Gonzalez highlights, surprisingly, having less lining in a jacket can make it more expensive, as the tailor must do additional work to finish all the internal seams aesthetically and ensure the unlined jacket has the same lifespan as a traditionally lined one. Skeleton jackets, with even less canvas and lining, are among the most expensive due to this intricate finishing.

The iterative nature of Multiple Fittings is central to achieving the impeccable bespoke fit. Typically, three to five fittings are required, each serving a distinct purpose:

Baste Fitting: This is the first fitting where the suit is loosely stitched together with temporary seams, a process known as “basting” or “tacking”. At this stage, there are no pockets or finished linings, allowing the client and tailor to assess the initial “blueprint” of the suit. Major modifications can be made, such as adjusting the garment’s “balance” – the critical relationship between the back and front lengths to harmonise with the wearer’s posture. The cutter, like Richard Anderson, will “remark the coat with chalk based on the findings, and cut a new pattern based on what [they’ve] seen,” before the coat is completely ripped down flat and the amended pattern implemented.
Forward/Intermediate Fittings: These subsequent fittings bring the suit closer to perfection. Here, finer details are refined with precision, such as adjusting the taper of the trousers, fine-tuning the jacket’s drape, raising the collar, or lengthening sleeves and sleeve tension. The tailor continually revises the pattern based on these adjustments, with dedicated coat makers or trouser makers then working on the canvases and linings to create a more formed garment.
Final Fitting: This is where all elements converge. The suit undergoes a thorough inspection, ensuring every seam, button, and lining meets the tailor’s exacting standards. Any final tweaks are made, buttonholes are meticulously hand-sewn, buttons are secured, and the garment is expertly hand-pressed. Only when every detail is perfected, and the client is completely satisfied, is the masterpiece delivered.

The entire bespoke suit process typically takes between 8 to 12 weeks, though it can extend to several months depending on complexity and client availability for fittings. While this is a significant time investment compared to made-to-measure (which can be ready in days to weeks), the result is a garment that truly fits like a glove and embodies unparalleled quality. Matthew Gonzalez notes that while a tailor could theoretically finish a coat in about 2.5 full working days, the overall process takes longer due to the capacity of the workshops and the scheduling of client fittings. This meticulous, hand-driven process ensures that each bespoke suit is not just clothing, but a lasting work of art.

In Studio or Online, Your Style Will Shine

Discover the craft of a luxury designer tailor Sussex at our Ardingly studio, or meet with our Brighton tailors closer to home. For bespoke tailoring London, we bring our expertise to you in the capital. Prefer convenience? Book your tailor consultation online and start your journey towards a wardrobe that’s truly yours — wherever you are.

Choosing the Right Tailor

Selecting the right tailor is a pivotal decision on your bespoke suit journey, as it directly influences the quality, fit, and overall experience of commissioning your garment. With numerous options, especially among London tailors, discerning the ideal craftsman is crucial.

Evaluating London Tailors

When evaluating London tailors beyond the confines of Savile Row, consider several key qualities to ensure you choose a professional who aligns with your expectations and style:

Experience and Reputation: Look for established tailors with a strong reputation and decades of hands-on experience. Companies like Dege & Skinner, with a history dating back to 1865, or Huntsman, established in 1849, have built their reputation over centuries, demonstrating a deep understanding of the craft. Look for tailors like Igor Srzic-Cartledge of Dandylion Style, who, with 15 years of experience, is an internationally respected fashion expert, recognized by Vogue magazine as one of the UK’s finest stylists.
Portfolio of Work: Always ask to see examples of their previous creations, particularly pieces that are similar in style to what you envision. This provides tangible proof of their skill and aesthetic sensibility.
Fabric Selection: A hallmark of a true bespoke tailor is a wide and varied selection of luxury suit fabrics from reputable mills. They should offer choices from a vast “library” of materials, not just a limited selection. For instance, Henry Poole offers over 6,000 fabrics.
Communication Style: The best tailors treat the process as a partnership. They listen carefully to your preferences, offer expert guidance, and are flexible in incorporating your ideas and making adjustments. Clients of Dandylion Style praise Igor for being “flexible, knowledgeable, great to discuss ideas with,” and for truly listening to their needs. Matthew Gonzalez advises that you should “think of choosing a tailor like you naturally choose the friend circles that you have. Things click… I just want things to be easy, and I want to enjoy the time I’m with my tailor”. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and see if they are the right fit for you.
Aftercare Services: Many top bespoke tailors offer comprehensive aftercare, including alterations, repairs, pressing, and even refurbishing of old garments. Dandylion Style, for example, offers an “MOT service” to refresh old suits with new linings or details.
Understanding of Fit Nuances: A good tailor will go beyond basic measurements to consider your unique posture, body nuances, and movement. They should be able to account for shoulder angles, sleeve angles, and other specific characteristics that make a dramatic difference to the final fit. This attention to detail is what allows a bespoke suit to conceal “bulging shirts” or other perceived problem areas.
Manufacturing Transparency: Inquire about where the garments are made. For a Savile Row bespoke suit, the majority of the garment must be made on Savile Row and within the UK. Dandylion Style proudly states their bespoke garments are manufactured in England and carefully hand-sewn, ensuring quick lead times and high-quality manufacturing skills.
Pricing Philosophy: Understand how the tailor prices their garments. While making costs are often fixed due to the human labour involved, the cost of the cloth is a significant variable. A good tailor will be transparent about this.

Choosing a tailor should be a comfortable and enjoyable experience. As Igor of Dandylion Style believes, the entire process should be “professional, individual, and friendly”. For gentlemen, this is about finding a solution that delivers “unforgettable experiences” and “fabulous fitted garments” that capture their character.

Savile Row Tailors List

For those specifically interested in the unparalleled heritage and standards of Savile Row London, here is a condensed list of some of its most renowned names, many of whom are members of the Savile Row Bespoke Association:

Henry Poole & Co.: The street’s oldest tailoring house, famous for putting Savile Row on the map and creating the dinner jacket.
Huntsman Savile Row: Known for its distinctive one-button house style, equestrian heritage, and celebrity clientele.
Gieves & Hawkes: Located at No.1 Savile Row, with a long history of dressing royalty and military officers.
Dege & Skinner: A family-run house at No. 10 Savile Row, renowned for its bespoke tailoring and shirt-making, and its expertise in ceremonial uniforms.
Edward Sexton: A modernist who co-founded Nutters of Savile Row, bringing a rebellious and fashion-forward approach to bespoke.
Kathryn Sargent: The first female master tailor to open her own house on Savile Row, celebrated for her inclusive approach and commitment to the craft.
Anderson & Sheppard: Known for its soft, comfortable “draped” house style, attracting notable men from the arts, government, and business.
Richard Anderson: A former Huntsman cutter who opened his own establishment at Number 13, known for fusing rich heritage with contemporary cuts.

While some larger luxury brands may offer made to measure services, these independent Savile Row tailors represent the pinnacle of bespoke craftsmanship, adhering to strict standards and ensuring a garment of exceptional quality and unique fit.

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Learn more about crafting your bespoke suit journey, discover business suit clothes to refine your style, and explore the best suits to wear for a wedding. Visit our bespoke tailoring blog for more timeless advice and inspiration.

Tips for Your Bespoke Suit Experience

Investing in a bespoke suit is a decision that yields significant returns in terms of confidence, style, and longevity. To maximise this unparalleled experience, here are some essential tips for budgeting, understanding pricing, and maintaining your masterpiece.

Budgeting for a Bespoke Suit

It is no secret that a bespoke suit represents a significant investment. Prices can vary widely, influenced by several key factors including the quality of fabric, the tailor’s reputation, and the complexity of the design and construction. Expect to pay anywhere from £3,500 upwards for a bespoke suit in London.

The primary components that contribute to the bespoke suit price are:

Fabric Quality: This is often the most variable cost. Tailors base their prices significantly on the cost of the cloth. Luxury fabrics like fine wools, pure cashmere, and silk blends command higher prices. A vicuña suit, for example, can cost around £1,500-£1,800 per metre, with a two-piece suit potentially reaching £20,000. However, this is considered an extreme indulgence due to its delicate nature. For a first-time client, Matthew Gonzalez recommends choosing a robust, heavier-weight cloth that aligns with their lifestyle and how hard they are on their clothes, as these tend to last longer.
Labour and Craftsmanship: The immense skill and time involved in creating a bespoke suit are reflected in the price. The making cost is the largest expense, with individual artisans – such as coat makers and trouser makers – requiring years of training (typically four to five years to become fully qualified). Unlike factory production, there are no economies of scale; a tailor’s cost is fixed whether they make one suit or a thousand. The meticulous hand-cutting (“striking” the cloth), hand-stitching of key elements (lapels, buttonholes, lining), and the numerous fittings contribute to the intensive labour. The production for a single jacket can take approximately two and a half full working days of focused labour, with the entire process from a customer’s perspective often spanning weeks or months due to the individualised nature of the work and scheduling of fittings. This stands in stark contrast to factory-made ready-to-wear suits, where the entire garment might cost less than the fabric alone for a bespoke suit.
Tailor’s Reputation and Experience: Highly experienced and renowned tailors, especially those on Savile Row, command higher prices due to their established expertise, unique house styles, and extensive client history. The cost also factors in the high cost of living and operating a business in central London.
Complexity of Design: While Matthew Gonzalez notes that the style of a suit doesn’t typically influence the overall cost directly (except for complex, unlined “skeleton” jobs, which are more expensive to make due to the intricate finishing required), additional bespoke details and specific requests can subtly impact the final price.

Setting a clear budget from the outset helps manage expectations without compromising on quality. Discuss your budget honestly with your tailor, as they can guide you towards fabric choices and design elements that fit your financial parameters while still delivering a high-quality bespoke suit.

Understanding Bespoke Suit Prices

While often perceived as costly, understanding the value proposition of a bespoke suit reveals that it is a profound investment in longevity, timeless style, and personal empowerment.

Longevity and Sustainability: Bespoke garments are designed to last significantly longer than their mass-produced counterparts, often enduring for 20 years or more. Matthew Gonzalez highlights the “multi-generational” aspect, noting that bespoke suits are “built in a way that they can survive to be handed down” to future generations, becoming treasured family heirlooms. This inherent durability and the use of high-quality, often natural, materials (like those sourced from British cloth merchants) contribute to their “green credentials,” making them a sustainable choice in an era of fast fashion. By buying fewer, higher-quality garments that endure, you contribute to a more responsible consumption cycle.
Unmatched Fit and Confidence: The unparalleled fit of a bespoke suit transforms your appearance, enhancing your posture and silhouette in a way off-the-rack clothing simply cannot. This flawless fit translates directly into increased confidence and credibility. Clients frequently attest to feeling “a foot taller and with an extra shot of confidence” when wearing their bespoke items. It’s about a garment that not only looks sharp but feels comfortable all day long.
Exclusivity and Personal Expression: Each bespoke suit is a one-of-a-kind creation, reflecting your unique personality and tastes. From the choice of quirky, funky, and colourful linings to specific lapel styles or button options, every detail is a conscious choice that ensures “no one else will be wearing anything exactly the same”. It allows you to make a “character statement that is powerful, bold, and sophisticated” without uttering a word.
Emotional Value and Relationship: The bespoke experience fosters a deep, personal relationship between client and tailor, built on mutual respect and artistic collaboration. The gratification of watching your garment take shape, knowing it’s crafted just for you, creates an emotional connection that mass-market fashion cannot replicate. Some tailors even offer unique touches, like incorporating clients’ children’s signatures discreetly inside the lining, transforming the suit into an invaluable time capsule and family heirloom.
Investment, Not Just Expense: While the upfront bespoke suit price is higher, viewing it as a long-term investment changes the perspective. The longevity means the cost per wear over decades is often lower than repeatedly buying and replacing cheaper, less durable garments. As Matthew Gonzalez points out, the expense covers the artistry, the ethical working conditions, and the direct connection to the skilled hands that crafted your garment.

For those seeking a more “affordable bespoke” option, it’s important to understand potential trade-offs. Some companies might utilise technologies like CAD (Computer Aided Design) and laser cutting for efficiency, offering a blend of bespoke and made-to-measure approaches to provide extensive customisation with faster turnaround times. However, true handwork, the core of traditional bespoke, remains the gold standard for unparalleled fit and quality. It’s about finding the balance that suits your needs and budget, remembering that the ultimate value lies in the bespoke experience and the lasting quality of the garment.

Maintaining Your Bespoke Suit

Once you’ve commissioned and received your exquisite bespoke suit, proper care is paramount to ensuring its longevity and maintaining its pristine condition for decades to come. A bespoke garment is an investment, and with attentive maintenance, it can indeed become a multi-generational heirloom.

Here is detailed advice on how to care for your bespoke suit:

Proper Hanging: Always hang your suit on a quality hanger that supports the jacket’s shoulders and helps it retain its shape. Cedar hangers are ideal as they absorb moisture and repel moths. Trousers should be hung on a dedicated trouser hanger to prevent creasing.
Airing Out: After each wear, especially if you’ve been in a smoky or humid environment, allow your suit to air out for at least 24 hours before returning it to your wardrobe. This helps the fabric breathe, releases any moisture or odours, and allows the fibres to relax and return to their original shape, aiding in wrinkle recovery.
Rotation: Avoid wearing the same suit multiple days in a row. Rotating your suits allows the fibres to rest and recover from the stress of wear, significantly prolonging their life. This is particularly important for delicate fabrics like vicuña, which are highly susceptible to wear.
Brushing: Invest in a good quality garment brush (preferably with natural bristles) and gently brush your suit after each wear. This removes dust, lint, and surface dirt that can become embedded in the fibres, preventing them from dulling the fabric’s appearance over time. Always brush in the direction of the fabric’s nap.
Steaming, Not Ironing: For minor wrinkles, use a steamer rather than an iron. Steam relaxes the fabric fibres, releasing creases without applying direct heat and pressure, which can damage the fabric over time. If you must iron, use a pressing cloth and a low heat setting appropriate for the fabric type.
Professional Cleaning (Sparingly): Bespoke suits should be dry cleaned sparingly, only when absolutely necessary (e.g., noticeable stains or odours). Over-cleaning can strip the natural oils from the wool, shortening its lifespan and affecting its drape. Always choose a reputable dry cleaner experienced in handling high-quality tailored garments. Your tailor can often recommend a trusted professional.
Spot Cleaning: For small spills or marks, gently spot clean with a damp cloth or a specialised fabric cleaner, testing first on an inconspicuous area.
Storage: Store your suits in a breathable garment bag to protect them from dust, light, and moths, especially during off-season storage. Avoid plastic garment bags for long-term storage as they can trap moisture. Ensure your wardrobe is not overcrowded, allowing air to circulate around the garments.
Minor Repairs and Adjustments: Your relationship with your bespoke tailor doesn’t end after the final fitting. Many tailors offer ongoing aftercare services. This includes minor repairs, re-stitching, or replacing buttons. Furthermore, bespoke suits are constructed with a certain amount of adjustability built in to accommodate minor changes in weight. For more significant weight fluctuations or changes in your physique over time, consult your tailor. They have the expertise to make alterations to ensure your suit continues to fit perfectly, maintaining its elegant silhouette for years to come. The ability to have your suit altered and maintained by its original creator adds immense value and ensures it remains a flawless part of your wardrobe.

By following these comprehensive care tips, your bespoke suit will continue to radiate sophistication and confidence, serving you impeccably for a lifetime and beyond.

About The Author

Igor is an experienced ladies & men’s tailor with over 20 years of crafting bespoke and made-to-measure suits for clients across London, Sussex, and beyond. He combines traditional techniques with an eye for modern style, helping men and women feel at ease in garments that fit beautifully. With decades spent in respected tailoring houses and his own studio, Igor offers trusted advice and thoughtful guidance to help you choose, style, and care for your suits with confidence.

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